My Blue Heaven
When it comes time for a quiet dinner for two, the Blue Grotto fits the bill beautifully. Once inside, you can see handsome dining rooms to the right and left, and a very active bar scene right in the heart of this large restaurant. We arrived early in the evening and got what we felt was the best seat in the house, a table between the fireplace and the front windows. Nick, our waiter, introduced himself, brought us a basket of various breads with a small pitcher of garlic-infused olive oil, and took our drink orders, all with the expertise you usually see only in much older waiters. My compliments to Chef Robert Hanson for putting together a menu that has all the classic Italian dishes you might crave, as well as some new and interesting items.
For example, we had Cozze Ripieni ($9) as our first course - a plate of mussels, enough for two to share, that were topped with a light breadcrumb stuffing and garlic butter. With a tiny fork, we scooped the meat from each half shell. This was a terrific first course with my wine cocktail, a large martini glass filled with an icy blend of vodka and Meritage wine ($9). In true Italian style, we next had a pasta course. We shared the Pappardelle Bolognese ($19), long flat ribbons of pasta topped with a long-simmered meat sauce; we used our bread to mop up every bit of it.
We both were in the mood for "carne" so we ordered two beef dishes as our main course. We're still arguing as to which one was better. The Bistecca alla Mamma con Mollusco ($29) was a new version of the classic "steak a la mama" dish that so many restaurants offer. To begin with, the rib-eye was nicely trimmed of excess fat, then grilled medium, and topped with shrimp, crab and mussels in a garlic butter sauce. The Filetto di Manzo ($27) was a filet mignon, nearly two inches thick, that was grilled to a perfect medium and topped with a port wine reduction. Surrounding this steak were ruby-red cubes of roasted root vegetables and pancetta hash that tasted even better than expected.
Continuing the Meritage theme, I switched to the Dry Creek Meritage ($13), served in a magnificently huge wine glass. Nick brought forth the dessert tray to tempt us, and it was impossible for us to say no. The Triple Chocolate Torte ($8) was rich in flavor yet light in texture. The light and airy Ricotta Cheesecake ($8), drizzled with chocolate sauce and sprinkled with pistachios, was divine. As Italian pop music played quietly in the background, everyone around us seemed to be enjoying the relaxing atmosphere. For excellent Italian food in warm surroundings, the Blue Grotto is one of the best.
Linda Beaulieu is the author of The Providence and Rhode Island Cookbook, available in local bookstores.
BLUE GROTTO
210 Atwells Ave, Providence • 272-9030 • lunch, weekdays • 11:30-2dinner nightly at 5pm, Sundays from noon
