The Rites of Wine

Wine service and consumption are both honored and disadvantaged by the welter of tradition and lore surrounding them: honored in the sense that they can make the whole experience more fun and enjoyable; disadvantaged in the sense that, for some, they impose an artificial stiffness or even an atmosphere of fear. The comments which follow are entirely personal. Any resemblance to the views of others, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

Since I believe that the extreme of pleasure for the host lies in discovering and offering inexpensive wine of outstanding quality, this would seem to preclude concern over accessory matters like glassware selection and pouring techniques, but, to the contrary, the fun is derived from treating the inexpensive wine with the reverence ordinarily reserved for the prestigious.

Serving wine is one of the few truly selfish pleasures which simultaneously gives equal or greater pleasure to others. I personally gain satisfaction from a wide assortment of wine glasses accumulated over more years than I care to admit to. A dinner party at my house deserves a special glass for each of the wines that I bring to the table. Since the passage of time is for wine glasses an exercise in durability, in which the best glassware inevitably loses, the selection procedure can be difficult. The thought process must include not only determining the best glass but also considering whether there remains sufficient quantity to cover the full complement of diners.

Is it necessary to have a profusion of glassware? Absolutely not. The fact is that, for purposes other than a formal party, I opt for a sturdy large wineglass with a potentially indestructible stem. If this seems to rule out crystal – so be it. I really like to have available to me wine glasses which, if dropped on a carpet or even possibly a wooden floor, will survive to appear another day. I do not suggest that this task be treated casually. The glasses you acquire will, if you are careful, be your life-long friends. You must exercise some judgment in balancing the aforementioned indestructibility with shape and overall attractiveness. Do not use glasses with designs on them, thus distorting an otherwise good view of the wine's color. For the same reason, I suggest rounded surfaces, generally ruling out cut glass.

Does the host take the first taste? Absolutely. I favor an approach which may suggest more expertise than you actually have, but which, if you continue to use, will ultimately lead you to acquire it. Pour just enough wine to permit you to study its color and to roll it around to cover the entire inside of the glass with a light coating. Then plunge your nose into the glass and draw in the aroma, essentially trying to guess what the wine will taste like. Finally, take the wine into your mouth and hold it on the top of our tongue and guide it over your taste buds on the way down. It makes a fine show, and it fills the very real purpose of detecting an undrinkable wine before you inadvertently foist it upon an unsuspecting guest.
Does one ever reject a wine? Occasionally it will be necessary. In my own case it occurs perhaps once in twenty-five bottles – frequently enough to underscore its importance; infrequently enough to add credence to my decisions.

The Rights of Wine
In my activities in management and executive development, I have done considerable work in the field of 'customer service,' even including in my client base a well regarded local restaurant. In most of my assignments, I have encouraged the development of a Customers' Bill of Rights. It is essentially a recitation of what a potential buyer of products or services has a right to expect in dealing with the seller's organization. It has proved to be a critical exercise in changing the focus of the organization and its personnel with respect to wine service in restaurants. I fear that the Bill of Rights and the refocusing effort may have to come from the customer.

I should add that an effective Bill of Rights emanates from discussion. As participants offer their ideas, some are accepted enthusiastically, others rejected out of hand, and most refined and clarified. In the absence of such verbal interchange, I suggest that you ponder the ideas which I shall express and then come up with your own inimitable version. Once you have done so, stick with it. Reward with your patronage the restaurants which meet your expectations; shun those which do not. If enough of us do this, our wining and dining experiences are certain to be the better for it.

I have a right to expect the following:
• The wine list will be reasonably keyed to the offerings of the restaurant
Comment: The larger the restaurant and the more impressive the quality of the offerings, the larger and more inclusive the list.
• The wine list will reflect a modest mark-up, certainly not in excess of twice the retail price
• The house wines will reflect the restaurant's pride and can be confidently ordered
Comment: Much of the joy during a tour of the vineyards in France comes from the wonderful, inexpensive, locally produced house wines served in each area's restaurants.
• The wine will be served in accordance with the customer's instructions
Comment: If the wine has been ordered as part of the cocktail foreplay, it should arrive promptly. If it has been ordered to accompany the main course, it should not be served until just before the entrees arrive. My ire has been raised by the many restaurants which serve such wines at once, presumably in hope that it will be consumed quickly and more wine will be required with the dinner.
• The wine will be served in clean, attractive glasses, appropriate to the nature of the restaurant
• The wine, if other than a house wine or a jug type, will be poured so that each glass is no more than one third full.
Comment: This not only enhances the wine experience by permitting the bouquet to be better enjoyed, but it prevents excess wine being served to those with small wine appetites.
• The subsequent pouring of the wine will not exceed the one-third level established earlier
Comment: There is nothing so maddening as to see an expensive wine being served to those who do not consume it and watching its level moving ever closer to the brim. Not only do I resent paying for unused wine, but I selfishly want to have it in my glass, not someone else's!

As I conclude, you can easily determine that I also enjoy the 'writes' of wine!

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