Warren has become quite the dining destination, and adding to its already impressive repertoire is Bywater. It took over the location where The Cheese Plate was, and what a change it is. Co-owners Katie and Brian O’Donnell describe the cuisine as mainly coastal. There’s an emphasis on coastal fare like oysters, shellfish and the local catch, but there's also plenty that reflects the intersection of land and sea. It's kind of a new world interpretation of old world flavors and techniques.
As I sat at the bar one warm night, I was impressed by the thoughtful touches at Bywater: there was Rosé on tap, apps at the bar were served on individual cutting boards, brown bread flowed like wine to accompany any and everything, and Brian, who is also the chef, is just so darned talented. Everything that came out of the kitchen was peak of the season, simply and thoughtfully prepared, and tasty as all hell. A must try item from the kitchen? “The beef tartare,” says Katie. “[It’s] inspired by Pittsburgh where [Brian] grew up. He sears one side of the tartare so you're getting two levels of flavor: the fresh raw beef with the tangy espelette pepper vinegar, and then the caramelized, seared edges. It's served the traditional way with thick-cut frites and a raw egg yolk – really classic bistro style. Not the first thing you think of when you think ‘coastal’ but the potatoes, eggs and beef are all local, so why not?”
Aside from the cuisine, there are small, local touches everywhere. O&G Studio designed the interior (located in Warren); their sign was made by local artist Adam Tracy who worked off of Laura Sorensen's graphic design; their leather goods (menus, coasters, check presenters) were made by Warren artisan Michael Todd Moen of SweetTrade; the window art was done by their neighbor – internationally known artist William Schaff; and the photography was done by Michael Cevoli of Bristol. “Every time we look around the restaurant we just feel so lucky to be surrounded by such thoughtful, hardworking people who supported us and the vision for the place and lent their own signature to it,” she says. 54 State Street, Warren. 401-694-0727
Wine and Dine
What’s better than celebrating wine and food at one Newport mansion? Celebrating at three mansions. The 10th Annual Newport Mansions Wine and Food Festival returns September 25-27 to The Elms, Rosecliff and Marble House. Expect celebrity appearances by Martha Stewart, Jaques Pepin, Claudine Pepin, Jacques Torres, local favorite Frank Terranova and much, much more. Prepare for grand tastings, a gala celebration, a collectable wine dinner, auctions and a special conversation between Martha and Jacques Pepin. $40-$700. Various locations. 401-847-1000
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