Review

Pretzels & Pilsner in PVD... Prost!

The Dean Hotel's streetside restaurant brings a bit of Germany to PVD

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While Providence was eagerly awaiting the transformation and reveal of the Dean Hotel, I was especially looking forward to the opening of its restaurant, Faust. I’ve been to almost all the German restaurants in the northeast and with a couple of exceptions, most are lackluster. Given the passion and character present in all of Mike Sears’ establishments, I had the feeling Faust would rise above. The Dean’s opening bash gave partygoers a glimpse at the restaurant and small bites of its menu, and we were eager to return for a meal.

On this visit, we started with a Bavarian Pretzel with Mustard ($5). The pretzels are the work of Foremost Baking Co., who supply a number of area cafes and restaurants. This pretzel is slightly breadier than its German equivalent, but has a glossy dark crust and good flavor - this night’s was the best yet. The accompanying mustard is very refined and sharp, a nice detail where most restaurants take shortcuts.

To drink, I had the refreshing Sünner Kölsch ($6 for 330mL). Kölsch is a style of beer originating in Cologne, and this is a shining example from a historic Cologne brewery. Though you could order it in a liter, I’d recommend sticking with 330mL – it’s traditionally enjoyed in 200 mL glasses to guarantee its cool crispness lasts until the bottom. My husband had the Original Ritterguts Gose ($12 for 500mL). Gose is a rarity, a German beer that does not comply with the Reinheitsgebot, or German beer purity law, a rule which stipulates that German beers may only contain hops, barley and water; rare exceptions are made for regional specialties like this. Gose’s coriander, salt and lactic acid fermentation combine for a spiced sour brew. The beer prices at Faust are higher than average, but the selection is carefully chosen. There is no discount to ordering a larger draft, so take the opportunity to try them all in smaller doses, unless you relish the novelty of hoisting a liter.

The Slow Roasted Carrots ($7) were served on a bed of frisee and fennel “mustard,” tender and sweet from a long roast. Unlike many German restaurants, Faust has some vegetarian-friendly options. Currently, one of three large plates is vegetarian, and a meal composed of small plates such as these carrots, the White Asparagus and Pickled Egg with Grüne Sosse ($7), and the Cucumber Salad ($7) would be quite satisfying.

Next, I had the Wurst + Baguette ($13), choosing jagerwurst for my sausage. The sausage, made in house, stood out in quality and flavor and was nicely spiced with coriander. My husband had the Beef Cheek Goulash ($16). Both dishes came with fresh, hot fries, and we couldn’t resist asking for some of the curry ketchup for dipping. Though I enjoyed the fries, I thought the goulash would have been even better served alongside some spätzle, the much loved German mini-dumpling/noodle. Faust has a tasty spätzle dish on the large plates menu, tossed in browned butter with mushrooms and kale, but plated with a dish like goulash it can soak up the delicious sauce. The goulash was less piquant than some Hungarian versions and had a delicate spiced flavor with tender meat. We ordered the Warm Potato Salad ($8) as a side. This is a traditional mayo-free preparation that nailed the important balance of vinegary tanginess, sweetness and bacony smokiness. Grainy mustard provided a nice textural touch. Our only complaint in this superb meal was the overly salty sauerkraut in both our dishes, probably an anomaly since it was fine on previous visits. With our entrées, we shared a Pinkus Alt ($9 for 500mL), lighter and with more tart citrus flavor than other Altbiers.

Faust has eschewed overplayed stereotypes of busty beer girls to create a sophisticated German restaurant, something you’d be more likely to find in a young corner of Berlin than Epcot center. In daylight hours, natural light from the front windows is an airy, welcoming contrast to the hunting lodge ambiance of most German-American restaurants. The décor is tasteful and evocative of a casually old Europe, elegantly crafted gold-banded tables contrasting with a worn tile floor.

As they say in Germany, “alles hat ein Ende, nur die Wurst hat zwei” (everything has an end, only sausages have two). We finished our meal with a slice of Sachertorte ($8), a famous Viennese chocolate cake with layers of apricot jam and chocolate icing. Like everything else at Faust, it was made in house with a refined eye for detail and quality. Faust 122 Fountain Street. 455-DEAN.

the dean hotel, faust, providence, dining, food, review, rhode island, providence monthly, east side monthly, june 2014

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