Gorging on Gastro Pub Cuisine at Judge Roy Bean Saloon

You can’t get much closer to the heart of Bristol than the intersection of State and Thames. The center of downtown’s quaint shopping-dining district and a stone’s throw from Bristol Harbor, it’s an irreplaceable location. A beautiful brick building gracing one of its corners had unfortunately been vacant for quite some time, but new owners have breathed new life into an iconic old favorite.

Judge Roy (JR) Bean Saloon is back, and although the name and look are the same, the owners and menu are not. Partners Randy Ross and Zach Rivers met eight years ago as members of the Bristol volunteer fire department, and each brings an important expertise to their new venture – Rivers in construction, and Ross in culinary arts (including a long stint at the sadly-now-closed Stone House in Little Compton). Ross describes the duo’s impetus: “When we were both younger JR Bean was the place to be. We both used to hang out there and go see all the bands. When we saw that it was closed, we said what a shame because it was such a great location and beautiful historic building. Eventually we sat down and really discussed the potential (of this opportunity) and decided to look into buying the building. And almost a year later we opened the doors on June 1.”

Although JR Bean’s feels like a bar, diners should know that the menu is not typical bar food. “We offer a casual dining experience with a slightly upscale pub menu. ‘Gastro-pub’ is a term that many people like to use,” says Ross. “We want the food to surprise you.”

And surprise they do. It starts with the cocktail menu. I had never heard of a Dirty Pickle Martini ($9) or a Red Neck Sangria ($8), and our waitress’s description of each only piqued my interest further – so I ordered both. The martini was made with JR Bean’s house-made pickles, which are on the sweet side. It made for an interesting drink, but I felt that it wasn’t as “dirty” as it could have been had the pickles had more bite. The Sangria ingredients included bourbon, cider, and... bacon. It’s not every day you see a drink garnished with a crispy bacon strip, but it makes for a great, tasty swizzle stick.

Our first appetizer was the Narragansett Beer Battered Cheese Curds with Buttermilk Chive Cream ($7.95), a basket of lightly-fried gooey-goodness that allowed you to actually taste the cheese instead of just crunchy batter as mozzarella sticks often do. This was followed by the Pan Roasted Mussels with coconut milk, hoisin, cilantro and lime ($10.95). Dishes like this are all about the sauce, and this sweet, peanuty version did not disappoint.

However, because the sauce is center stage, these dishes should be accompanied by copious amounts of bread for dipping. Unfortunately, we were only given one lone piece to share, prompting us to request a basket. The entrée menu has innovative twists on many classic pub dishes, to the point where you’ll be asking your server many questions. Do the Roasted Eggplant Meatballs have meat? (No, they’re vegetarian). Does the Carpetbagger Burger actually have a patty, or is it a glorified clam roll? (It has a patty). Despite some initial confusion, it’s ultimately a foodie haven.

I went with the Carpetbagger Burger ($13.95), a hamburger patty topped with fried clams, arugula and remoulade. This delicious take on surf and turf can best be described as “umami” heaven – the Japanese concept of the fifth taste, “savory,” when food doesn’t fall neatly into sweet, salty, sour or bitter. The burger was accompanied by seasoned hand-cut fries that were so good I actually skipped the ketchup.

I also had a few bites of my companion’s Pork Belly Reuben ($13.95): pork belly with caraway cabbage, aged cheddar and Thousand Island dressing. You’ve probably had moist, fall-off-the-bone, cut-it-with-a-fork meat before, but you’ve probably never had anything like this in a sandwich. The Reuben’s meat was so tender, at first I thought I was biting into an empty space between the bread. The airy lightness did not mean the flavor had also floated away, and this juicy sandwich was a table favorite.

Our third sample of the entrées was the Drunken Pear and Gorgonzola Burger ($11.95). The burger got a thumbs up, although it was light on the Gorgonzola cheese. A quick exchange with a nearby patron unearthed a similar observation. While we don’t know who moved our cheese, we did know that the best was yet to come – Pecan Cinnamon Roll Bread Pudding ($7 - pictured above right) for dessert. The only problem with this dish is that eventually the plate will be empty.

The old JR Bean’s was known for entertainment, and the reincarnation will stay true to its roots. There is live acoustic music on Tuesdays, DJs on Thursdays and live bands on Fridays and Saturdays. Past patrons will also remember the great second floor space, which will now double as a function room that can accommodate groups and private events.

Ross says, “our goal is to bring this beautiful space back to life.” For the heart of Bristol, that’s great news.

Judge Roy Bean Saloon | 1 State Street, Bristol | 401-253-7400