I love spicy food. A lot of people say that, but I’m an extreme case. What I find to be a pleasant rush of heat is often spicy to the point of being inedible to most people. I use Sriracha like others use ketchup. I buy habaneros at the grocery store as if they were tomatoes or cucumbers. There is an entire shelf of my fridge dedicated to various hot sauces, along with several more in reserve on my pantry shelf. So, when I heard that Hercules Mulligan’s on Thayer Street was offering hot wings made with the legendary ghost chili, I knew I had to try them.
First, a bit of science to put things in perspective. The Scoville heat unit (SHU) is the standard measurement of the spiciness (or, if you want to be technical, piquance) of a chili pepper. It indicates the amount of capsaicin present, which is the chemical that gives chilis their heat. A basic bell or sweet pepper has a Scoville rating of zero. Your standard jalapeño, which is plenty hot enough for most normal people, averages 2,500-5,000 SHUs. Habaneros, probably the hottest pepper with which most (sane) people are familiar, run in the 200,000-300,000 range. The ghost chili (actual name: Naga Bhut Jolokia), which like all peppers varies in heat, can easily climb upwards of 1 million SHUs. Yes, that’s a million – or roughly 400 times hotter than Tabasco sauce. It’s a hybrid pepper cultivated in northeast India and Bangladesh. In 2007, the Guinness Book of World Records recognized it as the hottest pepper in the world (though it has since been surpassed by various hybridized Franken-peppers), and in 2009 India’s Defence Research and Development Organisation announced plans to weaponize it by creating non-lethal ghost chili grenades for use in riot control.
Hungry yet? Hercules Mulligan’s chef TJ Gianfrancesco devised the wings out of a bizarre sense of what qualifies as fun. He used a similar recipe – starting with a base of Frank’s Red Hot, and adding jalapeño, habanero, cayenne and, of course, fresh ghost chili – at his former restaurant in Wrentham, which attracted a bit of notoriety and cult following among thrill seeking foodies. He brought it with him to his new endeavor to continue the fun, adding, “Honestly, it’s good for beer sales.” The challenge is to finish an entire order (10 wings), but, as this was not an episode of Man v. Food, I decided that three would be more than enough to satisfy my curiosity. That turned out to be a wise move: after several people succeeded at the ghost pepper challenge a few months back, Gianfrancesco decided to tweak the recipe for even more heat. “This is absolutely the hottest I’ve ever made,” he informed me. “I don’t think I could do three.”
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jalderwood
Just reading this I have beads of sweat under my eyes and atop my head. I'm goin' in!
Thursday, September 13, 2012 Report this